ShapeOko3 Enclosure

      3 Comments on ShapeOko3 Enclosure

I was tired of all the noise and dust generated by my ShapeOko 3 CNC so I tried to find a simple and affordable solution to that problem.  After looking at what people do, on the internet, I decided to build my own enclosure using PlexiGlass.

enclosure-1

 

Here is the size of the panels I used (all 1/4 inch thick plexiglass):

  • Back: 16″ high X 32″ wide
  • Side (2X): 16″ high X 26″ wide
  • Top: 26″ X 32″
  • Front: 18″ high X 32″ wide  (yes, 2 inches taller than the back panel.  We will see why later)
  • Top reinforcement: <32″ wide by 4 inches high.  (If you use 1/4 inch thick PlexyGlass, like me, then you want to use 32″ – (2X1/4″) = 31.5″ wide.

The rest of the material is simply:

  • 1 clear Silicone tube
  • 36 inches of aluminum L angle
  • At least 212 inches long of self adhesive foam (3/8 or 1/2 inch thick)
  • a roll of masking tape or electrical tape
  • 4 X  90 degree angle brackets to fix the top reinforcement piece
  • bolts & nuts

So, to build the enclosure, I started by cutting the plexiglass panels (using a plexiglass knife) to the right dimensions.  Then, I taped everything (on the outside surface of the enclosure) in place except for the door and the top reinforcement.  Once it was done, I turned the whole thing upside down so I could apply the silicone on all the panels junctions.

taped-enclosure

silicone-on-enclosure

In my case, it toked close to 3 days before the silicone was sufficiently dry so I can move the enclosure.

I applied self adhesive foam where the enclosure would be sitting.  This is having 3 purposes:

  • Make sure there is no gap between the enclosure and the table surface so the dust and noise can’t leave the box.
  • Reduce vibration between the enclosure and table, also reducing noise.
  • Provide some room to run the wires outside the enclosure

Here is what it looks like:

foam-under-enclosure

Once the tape is applied, you are be ready to put the enclosure in place!

The next step will be to put some reinforcement for the top panel, in the front, since there is no front panel (this is where the door will be).enclosure-no-door

It’s a bit difficult to see, but I added 2 strips of foam tape on the reinforcement piece.  I used 4 small 90 degrees angles to fix the reinforcement to the side panels.  This is all sitting at about 1/2 a inch from the front of the enclosure.  The 2 strips of foam tape are there to reduce noise and block dust between the door and the reinforcement piece.

enclosure-door-opened

The next step was to install the L brackets on each side of where the door will sit.  I drilled holes through the side panels and the brackets and used bolts & nuts to fix everything together.  Also, when installing the brackets, make sure to leave some room so the door will be able to slide between the bracket and the rest of the enclosure.

Here is a top picture of the left L bracket and door (the door is at the top of the picture).  You’ll notice that I moved the foam tape a bit so you can see the gap between the door and the top panel…

door-brackets-top-view

You should now be able to close the door.  I added another strip of foam tape to the door to create a seal between the door and the top of the enclosure.  I made sure the door was taller than the rest of the enclosure so it’s easy to open the door and also I was able to add self-adhesive foam.

enclosure-door-closed

As a bonus, here is what it looks from the side.

enclosure-side-picture

3 thoughts on “ShapeOko3 Enclosure

  1. Marc

    Bonjour François,

    Je suis présentement en train de regarder la Shapeoko 3 et je suis tombé sur ton site web.

    Est-ce que tu es satisfait de la rigidité, assemblage et qualité du produit?

    Aussi, est-ce que tu as dû payé des frais exorbitants de douanes ou as tu trouvé un distributeur canadien?

    Merci!

    marc

    Reply
    1. admin Post author

      Bonjour Marc Antoine,

      Oui je suis très satisfait de mon achat. J’ai commandé ma Shapeoko 3 alors qu’elle n’existait que sur papier et j’ai donc fait parti de la première “batch” de livraisons. Malgré cela, l’assemblage a pu être fait sans devoir ajuster quoi que ce soit au niveau des pièces. En fait, j’ai eu à corriger les connecteurs sur 2 stepper (les moteurs) car ils étaient inversés mais c’était mineur et ça me surprendrait qu’ils aient toujours les mêmes enjeux. Comme je l’ai commandé directement de Carbide3D, j’ai effectivement dû payer des frais de douanes. Ça fait un bout de temps mais je crois que c’était aux environs de 100$. Pour être honnête, j’ai surtout fait des circuits imprimés avec ma Shapeoko. Donc, je sais que ça fait un bon travail sur le plan de la précision. Par contre, je n’ai pas encore essayé de machiner des métaux mous tel que l’aluminium. Mais je sais qu’il y a plusieurs vidéos de gens qui le font, sur Youtube, et ça semble faire un bon travail.

      Reply
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